[2]
RODS AND REELS
It is almost impossible to discuss rods
for lure fishing without mentioning the
reels to go with them, and vice versa -
the two quite simply have to go together.
Likewise, one should really talk about rod/reel
outfits in relation to the types of lures
they will be used with, which is what I
will do later when I come to the actual
business of fishing. In this chapter I intend
to take an in depth look at the pros and
cons of various styles of rod and reel,
and the features needed in them. If I seem
to go into a lot of detail in this chapter
it is because I believe that the tackle
you use for lure fishing really does have
a marked effect on the success you will
have with your lures. Using the wrong type
of outfit for a particular lure type can
result in the lure failing to work correctly,
or at least not to its optimum fish catching
potential. Too light an outfit will often
result in a failure to hook most of the
pike that take your lures. Matching rods
and reels to lures is crucial. In other
words - balanced tackle. But by balanced
tackle, I don't mean rods that physically
balance at the point where they are held
when fishing. To aim for this is to get
things completely out of perspective. This
would only improve your fishing by reducing
fatigue if you were to hold the rod horizontally
all the time you are fishing. As I will
explain later, while this may be fine for
trotting a stick-float, it is not the optimum
position for lure fishing. Balanced tackle
is important in all forms of angling, but
nowhere is it more important than when you
are casting and retrieving all day long.
When lure fishing the rod, no matter what
type of outfit is in use, should be less
held than hung from your fingers. As a result
the strain on your arm is minimal.
In
the past pike anglers, even keen lure men,
had just one rod for lure fishing. Often
this was a ten foot carp rod that "did the
job". This is slowly changing, and today's
keen lure angler will have at least two
outfits, and quite possibly four, to cope
with various lures, methods and waters.
Of course compromises can be made, within
certain parameters, but there is no substitute
for the right gear do the job properly.
The
fixed-spool reel reigns supreme in U.K.
pike fishing, and rightly so for most methods,
but for many lure fishing applications its
value is limited. Let's look at its particular
strengths. For a start, fixed-spool reels
are easy to cast with, requiring little
practice, manual dexterity or mechanical
adjustment for fool-proof casting. This
makes them ideal for anglers starting lure
fishing as time spent removing tangles will
be almost nil. Because there is no worry
of over-runs a wide range of weights can
be cast on fixed-spool outfits, and the
balancing of lure weight to rod action is
therefore less critical than when using
a multiplier reel. The same applies if you
are casting into a strong, or gusty, wind
when multipliers will cause problems, even
for the most carefully adjusted multiplier
and the most educated of thumbs. For fishing
very light, or unaerodynamic lures the fixed-spool
is the best choice. For all its strong points,
the fixed-spool reel is not without its
weaknesses. For a start, lines over .35mm
diameter will cause a dramatic loss of distance
on most models. Switching to a larger reel
will alleviate the problem, but is likely
to unbalance the outfit and feel rather
awkward to use. Bigger reels have larger
(longer) more unwieldy handles.
These
days the choice of fixed-spool reel is very
large indeed, and because of the way manufacturers
operate, rapidly changing. So, rather than
recommend particular models I will now outline
the features to look for when choosing fixed-spool
reels. Whether you play fish by backwinding,
or off the clutch, there is a lot to be
said for front drag reels. The slipping
clutches on these reels are almost always
far more sensitive and smooth than on rear
drag equivalents, which is great if you
do use the clutch. If you don't, then these
drags can be screwed down really solid!
Best of all the front drag design is more
compact and lighter, which makes for a rod/reel
combo that is more pleasant to fish with.
Spool
design plays a big part in casting, and
today's reels mostly have well designed
long, tapering spools that line simply drips
off on the cast. Some also feature special
line lay systems that prevent overlapping
coils bedding in and hampering ensuing casts.
Even in the lower price brackets these features
can now be found in most manufacturers catalogues.
Size of reel, or perhaps more correctly
size of spool, is the critical factor when
choosing any reel as this determines the
strength of line that you will be able to
use. Line capacities quoted in catalogues
and handbooks are not much of a guide. Far
better to use the diameter of the spool
as an indication of the line range a reel
will cope with. For lines of 10-12lb (0.30-0.325mm
diam.) a spool diameter of 2in. will work
well. Heavier lines of 12-15lb (0.325-0.35mm
diam.) are better used on spools with a
diameter of at least 2¼in. If you
need to use lines of over 18lb test regularly
then you shouldn't really be using a fixed-spool
reel.
A
large torpedo grip on the handle is always
worthwhile on any fixed-spool pike reel,
particularly if you backwind, and one for
lure fishing is no exception. There is nothing
worse than a pike taking off at speed, ripping
a tiny finger grip out of your hand, causing
the reel to spin wildly out of control and
throwing loops of line around the bale arm.
Again this sensible feature is to be found
on most reels these days.
Depending
on how much you are prepared to pay there
are other features that are worth considering
if you use this type of reel frequently. Bale
arm rollers are now a standard feature, but
there is a trend towards large rollers, and
rollers running on ball races. Both these
innovations do actually make retrieving much
smoother and reduce line wear. Ball races
cost money, and while cheapish reels with
no ball bearings will feel smooth enough when
brand new, they will wear more quickly. If
possible, choose reels that have at least
three ball races. Two will be on the handle
spindle that turns the main gear. If you examine
the bush that replaces one of these races
on a cheaper reel after a season's use, you
will find obvious signs of wear. This causes
play in the handle and upsets the smooth running
of the reel. To my mind ball races are worth
the extra expense, and probably save money
in the long run, as the reel will last that
much longer. Some of the top reels around
at the moment feature seven or eight ball
races. It can be quite a problem working out
where they all go. Without doubt they feel
very smooth indeed. It is up to you to decide
if they are worth the several hundred pounds
that they cost!!
Technical
advances always start out as selling points
on up-market models, eventually working
down the price bands until they are universal
throughout a manufacturer's range. Two such
are the counter balanced rotor and handle
which are said to eliminate the wobble you
feel when winding a reel. Strangely, I seem
to remember that Mitchell reels had weights
in their spool rotors some thirty years
ago or more, yet if you were to believe
all you read this is an invention of the
nineties. I cannot deny that these modern,
balanced reels feel exceedingly smooth and
vibration free when you handle them in the
shop. However, I can't say that I have ever
found rotor wobble to be a problem when
I am out at the waterside. Super-smooth
reels are here to stay, and I am happy to
use them. The double handle concept is one
I shall reserve judgement on for the time
being, as even the shorter handles fitted
to multipliers catch in clothing from time
to time. So much so that I have fitted a
single-gripped counterbalanced replacement
to one of mine. It took a little getting
used to, but I no longer wind my jumper
round the reel when fishing! Not surprisingly,
I remain uncertain about double handles
where fixed-spools are concerned. Counterbalanced
handles should be another matter entirely.
Another
feature that many of the mid-price, and
more expensive, reels have in common is
a metal spool. If kept clean and well polished
these help improve casting efficiency. However,
if they get knocked a rough, or sharp, edge
may form which could easily damage your
line. Composite spools if damaged are less
likely to cut or fray the line. Metal spools
are heavier too. On the whole I prefer the
smoothness of metal spools while admitting
that there's not a lot in it in practical
terms.
The Shimano Spheros 4000F, a fixed-spool
reel with just about all the features you
could want in a pike-spinning reel.
Gear
ratios are an important factor when choosing
a reel for any method of fishing, especially
so for lure fishing where it can determine
how quickly, or slowly, lures are worked.
I remember reading an article in In-Fisherman
called Lo-Contact Crankin'" which extolled
the virtues of fast retrieve reels. The
theory was that you could get the crankbait
down quickly, and by turning the handle
slower than would have been possible with
a lower geared reel, maintain its depth
- tripping bottom. There is another advantage
in that high-speed gearing makes it easier
to keep in touch with fast running fish
if you backwind. You are, in fact, reverse
reeling more slowly than with a low geared
reel. I find that most people have an in-built
rhythm that determines their natural rate
of turning a reel handle, and that this
is usually too fast for most lures. At the
start of a day's fishing we all start out
fresh and keyed up. Cranking a reel slowly
is no problem, but as tiredness creeps up
there is a tendency to gradually increase
the retrieve speed, albeit unconsciously.
Fast reels compound the problem. For this
reason I suggest that quick retrieve reels
are best left alone until you find a specific
need for them. A gear ratio between 4:1
and 5:1 is a good all round choice. Slow
gearing also enables you to put more pressure
on a fish while backwinding, as there is
less strain on the gearing and you have
a more direct feel of what is going on.
It
can't be denied that improvements in engineering
and design are leading to an increase in
popularity in the U.S. for fixed-spool reels.
It has to be realised that this growth is
mainly in the bass and walleye markets,
smaller fish than our pike. For this reason
most of the new generation of fixed-spools
are a little on the small side for piking.
However, one or two fixed-spools designed
for saltwater use have appeared on the U.K.
market, and the smaller of these are well
worth investing in. Multi-national tackle
firms have some bizarre policies, such as
insisting that the U.K. branch lists a reel
in its catalogue that the British management
knows will never sell. If you come across
one that takes your fancy, snap it up as
it is unlikely to stay in the catalogue
for long.
The
Americans refer to fixed-spool reels as
spinning reels, which makes sense as that
is what they are best for. Fishing small
lures like spinners, spinnerbaits and so
forth with relatively light lines. To get
the best out of a fixed-spool it must be
correctly loaded with line. Not too full,
or the line will spring off the spool and
tangle at the slightest hint of slack, not
under-filled or casting distance will be
restricted. A couple or three millimetres
from the lip is about right.
Casting
with a fixed-spool reel is straightforward
enough, but when using long bodied lures,
especially light ones, there is a likelihood
of them tumbling in flight and tangling
with the trace. Learning to feather' the
line with the index or middle finger of
your rod hand as it comes off the spool
will help minimise these occurrences. When
using a multiplier this is less of a problem
as the spinning spool has a braking effect
on the lure and causes the line to act rather
like a drogue, stabilising the lure as it
flies through the air. Not every time, but
more often than not.
Multipliers
have other advantages too. For a start they
will easily handle monofilament lines of up
to thirty pounds test if you need them, without
any great loss in casting distance. Indeed,
anyone new to multipliers will find them less
troublesome with thicker lines as the level
on the spool falls much quicker during the
cast, and therefore slows the spinning spool
at the same time. Birds nests are far less
common with heavier lines than fine ones.
Both these factors mean that you can fish
heavier than you would have to with a fixed-spool
reel. Now, this may go against the grain for
many anglers, but not for me. I always fish
with the strongest gear I can get away with.
There is no point in using light gear to give
the fish a chance" or to make the contest
more sporting" (whatever that means). Light
tackle only makes a long job of getting pike
under control, gives them more chance of finding
snags or breaking the line and runs the risk
of over tiring the fish. In warm weather,
when most lure fishing takes place, this unduly
stresses the pike and is indefensible in my
view. On these grounds alone it is worth fishing
as heavy as possible. Avoiding leaving tackle
attached to pike should come above the fun
to be had from fishing light. Strong lines
also have the added benefit of standing up
better to abrasion and casting stress, further
reducing the chances of leaving lures in pike.
They also get you more lures back that hang
up in snags!
The
ability to handle thick lines apart, what
other features do multipliers offer the
lure fishing pike angler? Well, they put
you in more direct contact with your lures
for one thing. This is because the line
is not going through a right angle over
the bale roller, but comes straight off
the spool. There is also no chance of slack
line fouling around the reel as you work
your lures. This is unlikely to happen if
you are simply cranking lures back. But,
if twitching baits using a spinning reel,
loops of line can get behind the spool as
you take up the slack.
Perhaps
more importantly multipliers make for a
more comfortable hold of the rod. Being
compact and having short handles you hold
the rod much tighter to your body, unlike
with a fixed-spool outfit that has to be
held out a ways to allow the reel handle
to be turned. The short stroke handles also
mean that your reel hand is working mainly
at the wrist, rather than the elbow. All
in all this is less fatiguing. Let's face
it U.S. anglers use lures most of the time
and they prefer baitcasters. As an aside
here, short, single handed pistol-grip rods
are often referred to in Britain as baitcasters",
whereas a baitcaster in U.S. terms is a
generally thought of as a reel. Where this
confusion has come from I don't know. But
if I refer to something as a baitcaster,
then I generally mean the reel. So, if multipliers
are so good, why aren't they more popular
with U.K. lure anglers? Part of the reason
is Techno-fear. Multipliers are perceived
as complicated and difficult to master,
which is not really the case. I think a
lot of anglers have forgotten the problems
they had when they started fishing with
fixed-spools. As for being complicated,
it is true that some multipliers seem to
have lots of dials and knobs, but no more
in truth than a modern Baitrunner type reel.
And they are all the rage.
In
the past there have been few left hand wind
(LHW) multipliers available in this country,
anywhere in fact, which has been a big deterrent
to anglers brought up on fixed-spool reels
that traditionally have their handles on
the left for use by right handed people.
This is changing, and even American catalogues
list more LHW baitcasters these days. Quite
why multipliers have evolved to be predominantly
right hand wind (RHW) is a bit of a mystery,
possibly stemming from the reel's development
from centrepins used below the rod. Turning
the rod so a LHW centrepin reel is on top
results in the handles now being on the
right. Just a theory. Whatever the case,
the RHW multiplier is the current norm -
illogical as it may be. I have argued the
case with a couple of anglers who, although
right handed, use RHW multipliers and have
been unable to understand their arguments
in favour of RHW reels. For some reason
their preference does not extend to fixed-spool
reels. Strange that.
With
the correct grip on a LHW reel there is
no need for any hand shuffling at all. One
grip being used for casting, retrieving
and playing fish. The design of the reel
can affect this though, as some models with
Thumbars can be a little awkward to use
in this way, and some thumbrests at the
front of the reel can prevent you getting
sufficient grip on the spool when casting.
This is most noticeable with low profile
models, and not a problem with the traditional
designs that I prefer. Thumbars can also
be a slight nuisance when trolling with
the rod in your hand, causing an inadvertent
disengagement of the reel when you strike
a fish. Not every time but now and again.
Often found on reels incorporating a Thumbar,
is a flipping switch. This enables the bar
to be depressed to put the reel out of gear
until the bar is released again. Doing away
with the need to turn the handle to re-engage
gear. Trying to cast with the reel in Flipping
mode is tricky, as it can all too easily
snap back into gear in mid cast! But for
trolling it can be a big help, allowing
you to drop lures further back single-handedly
while maintaining control of the motor with
the other hand.
Two
big factors that put anglers off multipliers
are the fear of birds nests, and the fact
that the drag has to be used for playing fish.
Taking this latter point first, it is true
that a very limited number of multipliers
have the facility to backwind. However, this
is changing too, and I expect it to become
a common feature in the near future. Maybe
more anglers will turn to multipliers if they
can play pike, without the use of the drag,
by backwinding. My experience of drags is
that they are reliable, certainly on the quality
reels I use. Cheaper reels I have tried are
not always quite so reliable. However, it
is always worth checking drag settings throughout
a session, as they can alter - usually tightening
up. I think this is because friction causes
the star wheel to rotate in sympathy with
the reel's handle as you fish. It's the only
logical explanation I have come up with so
far. Always slacken the drag right off at
the end of each day's fishing as advised in
the manufacturer's handbook. Failure to do
so will result in a sticking drag. Playing
big pike on a reel with such a defect is no
fun - as I can testify. Another lesson learned
the hard way!
Although the grip on the pike is alright
(better with the thumb over its snout for
more control) the grip on the rod and reel
is perfect. Note how only the little-finger
is behind the trigger, and that the forefinger
is laid along the side of the reel seat,
thumb well over the spool. Use this grip
for both casting and retrieving.
If
star drags still worry you it might be worth
seeking out a model with a Syncro Drag.
This is a system that Abu have fitted to
some of their reels from time to time which
allows the drag setting to be instantly
reduced (by up to 75%) by the simple expedient
of turning the reel handle backwards. You
might have to scan the second-hand ads though
to find a left handed model though. The
one to look for is the XLT2 LH Syncro which
has the same line capacity as the 5000 series,
plenty for most methods. Another option,
one that is open to any multiplier user,
and one that I use frequently, is to hit
the free-spool button - thumb pressure on
the spool maintaining control of line being
taken by the running fish. It is true that
I like to have my drag set pretty tight
while casting and retrieving a this ensures
that it won't slip when I get a take and
set the hooks. My initial setting is achieved
when I can just, and only just, pull line
directly from the reel without it bedding
into the coils beneath it. This may seem
tight to many, and line cannot be taken
from the reel at this setting if the rod
is bent. However, when a pike runs away
hard the rod should be lowered towards it,
and as the angle between rod tip and line
becomes flatter the fish will be able to
strip line more easily. Another reason for
not dropping below 15lb test! Of course
smash takes under the rod tip can be worrying
at first, but it soon becomes second nature
to hit that free-spool button! Only when
the fish is hooked do I even think about
backing off the drag. If the drag is too
slack then it will be almost impossible
to take up line and keep pressure on the
pike at the same time. That will introduce
slack, and allow the fish a good opportunity
to shake the lure free.
Getting
used to the controls on a new reel always
takes some practice and for anyone using
a multiplier for the first time this is
most apparent where casting is concerned.
Which brings us to the dreaded backlash,
over-runs and birds-nests. All of which
are the same thing - a big nuisance! Over-runs
are caused when the spool is spinning faster
than the lure is travelling through the
air. This results in line being thrown from
the spool with nowhere to go, so the loose
coils build up one on top of another until
the whole lot jams up. In a mild case the
lure will gain on the spool as its spinning
slows towards the end of the cast, the lure
taking up the slack. Mostly though coils
get trapped under each other and the spool
stops suddenly. At other times the line
will get dragged back under the spool and
wrapped the wrong way around it. What ever
the case, you have an almighty tangle, and
the reel is jammed solid. With care, most
backlashes can be carefully unpicked. Don't
rush this or the line is going to get badly
damaged. After two or three bad over-runs
it is best to re-spool because kinked mono
seems to encourage the problem. Braids are
not so bad in this respect, but can be much
more difficult to unpick without damage.
Watch out for plucking when unravelling
a braid backlash.
Good
multipliers are all supplied with a set of
instructions which detail the correct setting
up of the braking system for that particular
model. Follow these instructions to the letter
and you should never suffer from the nightmare
of over-runs. You will, however, lose distance
in comparison to an angler using an identical
reel, but who has learned to control the spool
using his thumb as the primary brake.
The
reel's handbook will instruct you to set
the rod and reel up with a lure hanging
from the end of the line, just under the
rod tip. With the rod horizontal you then
disengage the spool and allow the lure to
fall unhindered. By adjusting the end bearing
cover you will reach a point where the reel
stops spinning the instant the lure hits
the ground. When set up like this the lure
can be cast without any need to brake the
spool further. Unfortunately this means
that every time you change lures you have
to reset the brake. Despite the annoyance
factor of this rigmarole I still see anglers
who do just this, and who must lose hours
of fishing time over the course of a year.
Some reels have an additional magnetic brake
which can be useful, especially so when
the wind is gusting. Set this brake to maximum
for the first few casts, and gradually reduce
the setting until casting distance increases,
but over-runs don't materialize. When the
wind increases in strength increase the
drag, and when it drops, back it off again.
You can also use the magnetic brake to compensate
for larger or smaller lures than the one
used for the initial, mechanical, brake
setting. Magnetic brakes are simple to operate
usually being a dial on one of the reel's
sideplates, and very practical in use, especially
when fishing lures under an ounce and a
half in weight.
Having
just sung the praises of magnetically braked
reels, I have to admit that I still prefer
the old style reels that have the centrifugally
acting brake blocks for most of my lure
fishing. These blocks are attached to the
spool itself, flying outwards from the spindle
and bear against a housing as the spool
spins, thereby slowing its revolutions.
Each spool has two of these blocks. So I
throw one away! This cuts the braking effect
by half, making for faster spool. Admittedly,
it makes for a greater risk of backlash
too, but I am prepared to live with that.
Not only do I discard brake blocks, but
should I try the free-falling lure trick
there would be an almighty mess of line
on my reel. By all means follow the manufactures
guidelines when starting to use multipliers,
but the sooner you learn to adjust things
by feel' the better your casting will become.
To set up a multiplier I begin with the
brake set as per the manual, or thereabouts.
Then I slacken it off, cast by cast, until
maximum casting distance is achieved. There
comes a stage where further slackening of
the brake gives no extra distance, and this
is the point I am looking for. If a lure
of markedly different size is used, or I
have to cast into the wind, I may alter
the end cap to accommodate for this. Otherwise,
all braking required comes from the thumb.
I have handed one of my outfits over to
an experienced angler who has commented
on the casting distances I can achieve and
watched the inevitable happen. The reel
has been too quick for him and the line
has fluffed up nicely! Sure, I too get birds-nests
from time to time, but no more frequently
than anyone else. Anybody who uses multipliers
and who doesn't get the odd backlash must
have done a deal with the Devil!
Where
fixed-spool reels and multipliers differ
most markedly in use is in the casting style
required. Anyone used to fixed spools will
be well aware that casts can be made with
all weights of lure using just a light flick
of the rod. There is little real need to
compress the rod in order to propel baits.
On the other hand, it is essential to overcome
the reluctance of a multiplier's spool to
start spinning in order to cast effectively.
Casting must be smooth or backlashes will
occur and directional control will be lost.
For these reasons more limber rods are usually
recommended for use with multipliers, and
there is some sense in this. With a little
thought and some practice, though, it is
quite possible to manage perfectly well
with faster actioned rods and baitcasting
reels. The key is to match the weight of
the lure to the power of the rod, and a
change in casting style from the static'
one used with fixed-spools. The best way
to load a rod when baitcasting is to bring
the rod from a position in front of your
body, behind you and back forward again
in one flowing, continuous motion releasing
the lure at the appropriate point. This
generates more lure speed and gets the spool
revolving far more smoothly than a snatchy
cast from stationary. The whole process
is akin to casting with a fly outfit, except
there is no need to extend a great length
of line as the lure alone will be heavy
enough to load the rod. It always amazes
me to see anglers casting lures with almost
as much line out as the length of their
rod. Unless casting with an under-arm swing,
there is no need to have the lure hanging
more than the trace's length below the rod
tip when you start the cast.
A
little practice and plenty of confidence,
is all it takes to become proficient with
a multiplier outfit, and soon you will be
able to perform tricky under-arm casts and
the like. I have heard it suggested that
multipliers are more accurate than fixed-spools.
In my opinion this is arrant nonsense. I
can be equally accurate with both types
of reel - provided the lures are matched
to the rods used, which is the deciding
factor. In any event, it is the angler who
is accurate, not the tackle.
As
with fixed-spool reels the two main things
to look for in a baitcaster are build quality,
usually a function of the number of ball
races present, and line capacity. At least
two ball races are my preference. Having
used reels with fewer I value the smoothness
the extra ball bearings offer, and the added
longevity the reel will undoubtedly have.
The line capacity to opt for is determined
by the types of lures, and hence the strength
of line you will be using. At least one
hundred yards of your chosen line is what
I suggest you should be looking to fill
a reel with, and maybe a little more.
It
is worth noting here that there are two
factors that can affect casting and, therefore,
fishing efficiency. Both are to do with
the speed at which the line level drops
on a baitcaster's spool. I have mentioned
that thick line will empty a spool faster
than thin line, and similarly the level
will fall more quickly on a narrow spool
than a wide one. This might be of some help
to a few people who continue to have trouble
with overruns. A simpler solution is to
reduce the amount of line on your multiplier.
If you are like me, brought up on fixed-spool
reels, you will have a natural tendency
to cram as much line as possible onto your
reels. Multipliers are much easier to control
when the line comes to approximately an
eighth of an inch from the spool's rim,
or even a little further. If you want an
easy to handle reel go for one with a narrow
spool and under-fill it with thick line!
If you want a baitcaster that will out-cast
all others, pick a wide spool and fill it
to the brim with light line. I guess a happy
medium, and a practical fishing choice,
is to use a wide spool filled almost to
the limit with heavy line. This is what
I do and why I prefer the Ambassadeur 6501C3
above all others.
Gear
ratios are worth noting, too, having the
same influence on your lures as they do
when using any reel. Most of my multipliers
have gearing around 4 or 5:1. There are
some reels available that have gears which
can be set to shift ratio when the spool
comes under a predetermined load. They wind
fast when under light loadings, such as
reeling in a lure, and shift down to give
more winching power as the load increases.
At the present these reels are only available
in RHW and I have yet to try them out. It
seems to me that they could give you two
reels in one, as the precise load that causes
the gear shift can be altered at the user's
discretion.
There
are other features that are sometimes to
be found on baitcasters, and often cited
as bonuses by reel manufacturers. One such
is the free floating levelwind. This both
disengages from the gearing, when the reel
is put in free-spool, and follows the line
as it comes off the spool. This is intended
to add distance, an attempt to turn a reel
into one without a levelwind for the duration
of the cast. Beachcasters aiming for the
horizon use multipliers with no levelwind
as this does indeed slow the spool, being
connected to the rotating spool by a couple
of cogs. In practice the free-floating line
guard leads to bunching of the line as it
re-engages, usually at one end of its traverse
across the width of the reel. Another, similar,
idea is the levelwind that disengages and
stays in one place. The benefit of this
over the free-floating guard is that the
bunching effect is greatly reduced. However,
on wider spooled reels it causes the line
to travel through the guide at quite an
angle during parts of the cast. Should the
line guide be close to one end of the spool
this problem will be magnified. Trying to
ensure that the guide is always centred
before each cast minimises the problem that
this increase in friction causes, but it
wastes time and breaks the rhythm of your
casting.
As
the use of braided lines becomes more widespread
there is a leaning towards levelwinds that
prevent, or at least lessen, the bedding in
of turns of line. At the time of writing I
have yet to sample the delights of this innovation,
although I have not had any problems at all
with braids bedding in on my standard reels
so long as the line is wound on under sufficient
tension. Technical advances that I have found
improve the handling of reels are the new
gearing which eliminates the slight play that
can be felt in the handle, and the instant
re-engagement of the spool. With conventional
gears there can be a slight back-turn of the
handle noticeable when striking, but more
so when just playing' with the reel, and putting
a reel back in gear usually involves a half
turn of the handle. The latest reels have
no play in the handle whatsoever, going back
into gear very smoothly and just about instantly.
Classic Abu Ambassadeur 6501 (customised for
jerkbaiting with short handle and replacement
side-plate), and small, low-profile Black
Max.
A
useful feature to have if you are intending
to troll with rods in outriggers is a clicker,
otherwise known as a line out alarm. This
is quite simply a ratchet that clicks as
the spool turns and alerts you to a take.
With all these potential features to choose
from, it might be an entertaining project
to design the ultimate baitcaster. However,
I like the simplicity of the classic Abu
Ambassadeur multiplier although I do use
others from time to time. So until something
better comes along this is what I shall
stick with. For whatever reason, I find
these reels more pleasing to fish with than
the ergonomically designed, low-profile,
models. Small low-profile reels do fit the
hand nicely, but there always seems to be
too little room for my thumb for controlling
the cast or running fish. Only the tip of
the thumb can bear on the line with these
reels, yet the older style reels allow the
entire ball of the thumb, and some more,
to brake the line. A parallel can be found
here with beachcasters who have reels specifically
designed for them to enable the entire thumb
to cover the spool. Their need is greater
than ours as they have to prevent the spool
slipping against the force of a five ounce
lead. But the principle is the same. As
an aside, the spool of the 6501 is actually
wide enough to get both thumbs on when fighting
pike, which gives improved line control
over a powerful fish.
Multipliers
and fixed-spools are the only sensible choices
of reel for the majority of lure fishing.
There are times when a centrepin might be
of benefit, maybe for trolling with wire
line when its large diameter spool will
make the wire easier to manage. But this
is a very specialised technique. Closed
faced fixed-spools are best left alone as
far as pike fishing is concerned, being
designed for use with very light lines,
and are fine for this kind of fishing -
spinning for perch or chub say. No matter
what design of reel you use it pays to keep
it well maintained. follow the manufacturers
suggestions for oiling and greasing. Care
in this department will keep your reels
running smoothly, and keep them reliable.
On fixed-spools keep an eye on the bail
springs and line roller in particular. Multiplier
levelwinds, and drags need special care.
To be on the safe side, it is an excellent
idea to carry a spare reel whenever you
are having a one rod only fishing session.
There is nothing more frustrating than travelling
to your favourite venue anticipating a few
hours sport, only to have it curtailed after
a few minutes when the reel packs up. The
same could be said of rods, but my experience
of rods suggests that they let you down
far less frequently than do reels.
While
the choice of reel types is limited, rods
come in many lengths and actions applicable
to pike fishing with artificials. It might
be worth mentioning here that I have been
known to build a few rods in my time, and
even sold a lure rod or two. So in what
follows I shall consider how the variable
factors affect a rod's performance based
both on my experience as an angler and a
rod builder. Elsewhere I will describe the
particular rods that work best for specific
techniques - without pushing my own rods!
Right now I shall briefly mention the materials
that rod blanks can be constructed from.
Carbon fibre, or graphite, is so widely
available that its use is no longer exclusive
to top flight rods. There are many different
grades of carbon cloth which can be used
for blank making, and the choice of cloth
can determine both the stiffness and weight
of a blank, and its price. There is no reason
to opt for fibreglass as a blank material
any more, as carbon can do everything that
glass is capable of and more. It is lighter,
stiffer for a given weight and more responsive.
Provided the blank maker knows his job,
it is also just as resistant to damage as
glass in normal fishing terms. Stories of
carbon rods being fragile are tales from
the past.
Carbon
blanks have the advantage that they feel
stiffer when casting than they are when
playing fish. This crispness of action means
that they are, therefore, more versatile
than comparable glass blanks of old. The
inherent stiffness of the material also
helps to transmit more feel of a lures action
to the angler, particularly useful when
fishing spinnerbaits, and other such throbbing
lures. I have heard it suggested that you
should be watching the rod tip for indications
of takes, and that glass is a better material
for this purpose. It probably is, but I
think that you should be detecting takes
by feel, and that carbon has the advantage
here. My thinking is that it is easier to
respond quickly to a tap on the lure than
the sight of the rod tip twitching. As a
parallel it is like comparing touch legering
and quivertipping for chub or barbel. I
know I react late too often when on the
tip, but tend to remember striking takes
felt with the line over a finger tip. Surely
the same applies to lure fishing? I could
be wrong, but I doubt it.
The
three factors of greatest importance in
lure rod design are length, action, and
power. Length is easily understood, as this
is simply a measure of how long the rod
is! Power is a little bit more complicated,
being a combination of the rod's relative
stiffness and its action. Action is the
way in which a rod bends, its fighting curve,
and stiff action rods feel more powerful
than soft actioned ones. You will often
see rods described in various ways in manufacturers
catalogues, and a confusing array of terms
are used. Tip, medium, through, slow, fast,
ultra-fast, parabolic, heavy, light. What
does it all mean? Whatever you want it to
at times! A fast taper blank does not necessarily
make a fast, or tip, actioned rod, it could
equally well be medium actioned. These days
it is quite possible to roll a blank on
a slow taper mandrel, and by judicious choice
of carbon cloths produce a tip actioned
rod. It could take the rest of this book
to make sense of the various terminology
used by different suppliers, so instead
I shall simply set down what I mean by the
particular terms I prefer. This way you
should be able to understand what I am going
on about.
When
I say a rod is fast, or tip actioned I mean
that it bends easily in the top third of
its length, and stiffens rapidly towards
the butt. Through or soft actioned rods
bend easily throughout their length. Some
light through action rods will bend so much
that the tip can be made to touch the butt.
Try that with a fast rod and there could
very well be an almighty explosion! Medium
action rods are somewhere between the two
extremes, and under maximum load can bend
right through to the handle. Of course,
there is an infinite gradation within these
parameters, which is where the confusion
arises. What one manufacturer calls a tip
action rod, another might call medium. A
lot depends on what the current trend is
for. Should slow action rods be all the
rage, then some manufacturers might be tempted
to re-label a medium action model as slow".
It may seem unscrupulous, but stranger things
have been known!
While
the relative proportion of a rod that bends
has some bearing on its overall action,
its power is another matter. You can have
two rods that bend along identical curves
when fully compressed, yet one will require
far more effort to load it than the other
- this is the more powerful of the two.
This area of rod design is the most difficult
to write about as it is very much a question
of feel. Yet as this is what determines
the weight of lures that a rod will cast,
and the strengths of line it can safely
be used with, it is most important to have
some understanding of the matter. Again
rod manufacturers want to sell rods, so
they frequently label rods with wide casting
weight ranges. It is true that these are
a pretty good guide to a rod's capabilities,
but the optimum weight to use will be somewhere
in the middle of the range. Unfortunately,
what one manufacturer rates as a three ounce
rod, another might label as a four ounce
model. This is most noticeable when comparing
American made rods with European ones. The
Americans tend to under-rate their Musky
rods in particular by a couple of ounces
to the British way of thinking. When buying
mail-order from America this can all too
easily result in the purchase of something
totally unsuited to your needs.
When
looking for a lure rod it is always best
to take the lures you will be fishing with
as your starting point. This will determine
the casting weight of the rod you are after,
and therefore its overall power. This is
a constant, and you are now at liberty to
select the length and action.
Rod
length affects three major aspects of lure
fishing. Casting, hook setting and playing
of fish. The longer a rod is the better
it is for making long casts. Shorter rods
cast more accurately. Longer rods are also
better for setting hooks, and for playing
fish with, giving the angler more control.
This difference is most noticeable when
bank fishing. One other aspect of lure fishing
that rod length has a bearing on is the
working of the lure itself. This, in my
opinion, is the most important factor to
consider. Short rods are by far and away
the best for putting the angler in touch
with his lures. The control you have in
manipulating lure action is much greater
with a short rod. Because this is what ultimately
determines how successful your lure fishing
will be, length is the second most important
factor to settle when choosing a rod. If
the length of the rod allows you to fish
your lures more effectively, you will get
more takes. And the law of averages ensures
that even though the rod may cause you to
fail to connect with some of these takes,
some will reach the net. Let's face it,
10% of something is better than 50% of nothing.
I
use rods from around five and a half feet,
to ten feet in length. For most purposes
they are between six feet and seven and
a half feet long. By balancing rod, reel
and lure, you might be surprised how little
distance you will lose by choosing shorter
rods than you might previously have been
used to. Traditional U.K. lure rods are
in the nine to ten feet bracket, yet I can
almost match these for casting distance
with my six to seven footers. The lure is
the limiting factor. It is rare these days
for me to select a rod over eight feet,
as I feel the benefits of the extra length
are not sufficient to outweigh the loss
of lure control. Only if I had to cast lures
to extreme distances, and set the hooks
at this range, would I consider using longer
rods on a regular basis.
A
rod's action affects its hook setting potential,
and to some extent its casting accuracy.
Obviously, faster action rods are stiffer
than slower actioned ones. Therefore, they
transmit the energy of your strike more
directly to the hooks. Little energy is
absorbed by the rod bending. Tip actioned
rods also seem, to my mind, to be more accurate
casters. Or perhaps I should say that they
are easier to cast accurately with than
softer rods. My overall preferred rod action
is somewhere in the tip to middle range.
Exactly where in that range will depend
upon the precise use I want to put the rod
to. Very powerful, tip actioned rods might
seem unforgiving to play fish on, and there
is some truth in this. They certainly don't
absorb the lunges of a fish, being far less
springy than softer rods. I do not consider
it to be a worry though, as a carefully
controlled reel will eliminate any chance
of hook-pulls, or line breakage. Confidence
in your tackle and your ability are all
that's required.
While
there is no doubt that it is the blank on
which a rod is built that is the most important
consideration as to how it will perform
when fishing, the fittings used will have
some bearing. Because lure rods are in the
hand for long periods they must be comfortable
to use, and practical. Along with the majority
of anglers I have a strong preference for
cork as a material for lure rod handles.
I also like this to be slim in diameter,
as over-thick grips lead to discomfort in
the rod hand. The length of handle should
be as short as you find practical. As a
rule of thumb the extreme butt should not
extend much beyond your elbow when you are
holding the rod and reel. Many of my rods
have even shorter handles. I don't favour
pistol grip handles though, and the minimum
I would have behind the reel seat is eight
inches. This being just enough to rest against
your forearm when playing fish. The biggest
advantage of short handles is manoeuvrability.
They don't catch in clothing, or knock against
your body which is a big plus when many,
many casts are being made during a day's
fishing. To further improve matters in this
department it is worth having a butt cap
which is flush to the handle, or a simple
plug in the end, as bulbous end caps can
foul on clothing from time to time. I am
still searching for the ultimate, smooth
yet hardwearing, butt cap.
Reel
seats are pretty good on most rods these
days, carbon or composite screw fittings
being almost universally used. For fixed-spool
rods I like the hooded NPS type as it is
extremely comfortable to hold. The size
of reel fitting should be chosen not for
simplicity of fitting to the rod blank,
but for comfort in the hand. For this reason
I prefer the larger of the two sizes available.
Ahead of these reel seats can either be
a short length of cork or Duplon, the choice
is of little consequence as this is purely
cosmetic and unlikely to ever come in contact
with your hand. Rods for use with baitcasting
reels demand a different type of reel seat.
A trigger grip is essential to get the best
out of a multiplier outfit.
The
benefit of a trigger grip is obvious as
soon as you use one for the first time.
In plain terms, the rod hangs from your
hand by the trigger. There is no need to
wrap the fingers around the rod if you are
holding the rod correctly. A lot of people
seem to think that it is the forefinger
only that goes around the trigger. If this
were the case you would be holding the rod
behind the reel, and this would be very
tiring and impose unnecessary strain on
your wrist. The correct grip is to have
the first three fingers in front of the
trigger. This places the weight of the reel
directly in your hand, reducing fatigue
on the wrist. Were the rod to be neutrally
balanced at this point, as has been suggested
by some, there would be insufficient weight
acting in front of the reel for the rod
to hang effortlessly from your fingers.
NPS reel seat for fixed-spool reels, or
for dual purpose use on rods which may occasionally
be used with a multiplier. Simple trigger
reel seat and pistol grip on a light baitcaster.
Because
multipliers are seated uppermost on the
rod there is a natural tendency for the
rod to twist around. The so-called palming"
grip is the one that overcomes this problem.
There have been rods built in the past with
special recessed reel seats that set the
centre of gravity of the reel lower on the
rod, in line with the axis of the rod. Such
fittings have also featured a down-turned
section of the handle behind the reel. This
cranked handle was intended to improve the
feel of the outfit, and further reduce the
twisting effect that the weight of the reel
causes. Such handles are rarely seen today,
no doubt because they entail a lot of work
to fit to blanks, and they are expensive
in themselves. Most multiplier rods now
have blank thru" handles. This American
jargon simply means that the blank has not
been cut, and passes through the reel seat.
These handles function perfectly well in
my experience, and have the advantage of
being inherently stronger than ones which
involve the cutting of the blank in their
construction.
On
light multiplier rods there is no real need
for a long foregrip to a handle. However,
heavier duty rods may benefit from a three
or four inch grip here. Sometimes you might
feel the need to hold the rod in front of
the reel to reduce fatigue, either when
working big baits or fighting fish. This
is very much a personal matter. Some anglers
find such a grip essential, while I have
reason to curse it as it takes your thumb
away from the spool of the reel. Make up
your own mind.
The
only other fittings worthy of mention are
the rings, or guides as they are sometimes
called. Here too, modern rods are well equipped.
Linings of aluminium oxide and the like are
hard wearing, long lasting and reliable. They
do not damage lines, unless they become cracked,
so it is worth checking them regularly. Standard
grade guides are perfectly acceptable, but
the markedly more expensive silicone carbide
(SiC) lined rings are noticeably smoother.
This is most obvious when retrieving lures
and playing fish. I doubt that there is much
to be gained from using these rings in terms
of extra casting distance, despite claims
to that effect being made. Baitcasting rods
should be fitted with two or three legged
rings that stand well away from the blank,
and placed so that the line will not touch
the blank when the rod is fully loaded. Between
six and eight rings will be the norm for this
type of rod. Ring sizes on these rods can
be small as the line is not coming off the
reel in large coils. A butt ring with a diameter
of 20mm is large enough. Fixed-spool ringing,
on the other hand, will be fewer in number
(a maximum of six) and larger in size with
30mm butt rings standard. I find single leg
guides acceptable on fixed-spool rods, although
they are prone to damage in transit. Double
leg rings are a nice compromise as they stiffen
a rod's action a little less than would three
leg rings. There is, in reality, little noticeable,
difference in this respect between one, two
or three leg rings. Much of the talk about
this is pure hype. Rod builders prefer using
single leg guides, as they are cheapest and
quickest to whip to a blank! Tip guides are
prone to damage from trace swivels, which
inadvertently get wound into - or through
- them at times throughout a fishing session.
There is, therefore, a case for using a Carboloy
or Diamite tip guide as these will not crack
like ceramic lined rings do. These guides
are, unfortunately, difficult to come by in
the U.K., certainly in sizes applicable to
lure rods. It is worth carrying a spare tip
guide and a stick of Hot Melt glue, just in
case, to make waterside repairs. Keeper rings
are not essential, but do serve to protect
the whippings around the feet of your butt
ring, the alternative place for hooking up
your lure when the rod is not in use.
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