Should
either your line or your trace part when casting
it could well mean a lost lure, worse still,
should one or the other fail at any time while
you are playing a pike it is bad news for
the fish. This makes it obvious that these
two things are your most important items of
tackle. No compromises should be made in this
area.
The
actual type of line you choose is determined
by the kind of reel you are using. What
works best on a fixed-spool might not be
so good on a baitcaster, and vice versa.
A look though the Berkley catalogue will
show you that there are many different types
of monofilament available for those who
care to look. Limp lines, tough lines, lines
that change colour. All at a price of course!
It is possible to go to extremes over lines.
My advice is to try a wide range, and, as
with all tackle, settle on one or two lines
that suit the way you fish.
I
like my lines to be tough no matter what
kind of reel I am using, to take the pounding
that they get, to stand up to the wear and
tear of contact with weed and rock. It is
surprising how much damage weed can do to
lines, and - to the surprise of many - to
hook points. Don't underestimate the harm
that can come to terminal tackle from the
environment you fish in. Abrasion resistance
and good knot strength are my two main requirements
in a line.
Fixed-spools
demand lines that are limp, with little
memory'. That is to say they don't hang
in coils when released from the spool, but
almost straight. For a line to have this
property is very nice, but limp lines don't
always have such good abrasion resistance
as they might. Lines with a fine diameter
for their breaking strain are also advantageous
for fixed-spool fishing. Of course, fine
lines lack abrasion resistance. They do
increase the running depth of your lures
though, offering less water resistance.
Yet another factor to consider. Choosing
a line is always a matter of compromise
where toughness, thinness and limpness are
concerned. Balance each against the other
to suit your fishing conditions.
Having
a supple line is less of a concern when
using multipliers, so I tend to opt for
budget lines. The best of these offer excellent
value for money, are tough and reliable
and have the added advantage that you feel
happy about respooling at frequent intervals.
Bear in mind that Berkley's Big Game line
is their lowest priced mono. Of the lines
I have tried I can recommend Nash Power
Carp, Berkley Big Game and Daiwa Sensor
for multiplier use, and Big Game and Nash
Power Plus for filling fixed-spool reels.
A selection of nylon monofilament lines and
a Spectra braid as used by the author.
It
is worth noting the diameters of lines,
as there is some variation between makes
when it comes to breaking strains. Also
stated tests on the spools and actual tests
can vary widely. When Big Game was launched
in the U.K. the fifteen pound test was given
rave reviews as it broke nearer twenty pounds.
This should have come as no surprise because
its stated diameter is close to that of
a standard twenty pound line! There have
been unfavourable comparisons made between
Power Plus and Big Game by some anglers
I have met. Totally unfair criticism when
you realise that 15lb Power Plus has a diameter
equivalent to that of a standard 12lb mono,
while 15lb Big Game matches 20lb standard.
When making such comparisons you should
really judge lines of equal diameter. So
as a general guideline I have included a
chart towards the end of the book which
gives breaking strain/diameter comparisons
for standard monos. You can then compare
any nylon line of your choice against these
rough standards.
We
really ought to take more notice of the
diameters of the lines we use. This is the
factor that determines how much line we
can get on a reel, which in turn will affect
casting, lure fishing depth and the overall
way the line will handle when fishing. So
when I say that I like to use the strongest
line I can get away with, I should really
say the strongest and thickest!
While I am happy using standard nylon lines,
this does not mean that I haven't tried
other types. Copolymers have a lot of fans,
being fine, tough and reasonably limp. However,
my experience, and that of a number of my
friends, leads me to say that they are intolerant
of less than perfect knots, and can be unreliable
in use. It is their inability to cope with
the repeated stress from casting that seems,
to me, to cause copolymers to fail. I have
heard it likened to case hardening. With
the repeated stress of casting the last
few yards become brittle very quickly, and
therefore need cutting off far more frequently
than is the case with nylon.
The
degree of stretch a line has is important
as it affects the amount of feel you have
of the lure, as it works, bumps weed or
suchlike and when a pike takes it. Stretch
can also have a bearing on how many pike
you hook. There is no doubt at all that
very low stretch lines, like the new High
Performance Polyethylene braids, enhance
feel to an amazing extent. Every time the
lure hits something you are aware of it
unmistakably and instantly. There is no
'mushiness' in the way you sense what is
happening to the lure. Low stretch monos
are available, but they have very little
shock, or impact resistance and as a result
are liable to quickly weaken to a critical
point through repeated casting. They are
also unforgiving, the amount of stretch
in a standard mono (around 25%) gives an
added safety margin should a drag stick,
or a pike hammer a lure on a very short
line. The drawback to such a high degree
of stretch is when trying to hook fish at
the extreme of casting range. It is a deflating
experience to have an obviously large pike
hit a lure almost as soon as it has splashed
down, only to feel the soggy sensation of
the line stretching and the lure pulling
free of the pike's jaws. The same thing
can all too often happen when trolling lures
on a long line. For some applications, then,
low stretch lines can be a big help.
HPPE,
gel spun, Hi-Tech (or whatever other name
you might want to call them by) braids are
comparatively new on the angling scene,
originally being introduced in the 'States
where they were initially hailed as the
ultimate line. It didn't take too long for
the honeymoon to end and articles began
to appear urging caution with these braids
and proposing that they are useful in some
cases, and less so in others. Rather as
I had suspected in the first place. Because
these lines have as little as 4% stretch
there have been many horror stories of rods
being broken by anglers using these lines!
Apart from the Spectra fibres used in the
majority of the new-age braids other materials
have also been used, Kevlar and Dyneema
for instance, but they are prone to weakening
from exposure to ultraviolet light and water.
Not exactly what you want in a fishing line!
Braided
Dacron has been around for a very long time,
and shares many features with HPPE braids.
As well as having little stretch (around
12%), it behaves in a similar way when fishing,
although much thicker for a given breaking
strain. Both types of braid are less dense
than mono, and more supple. This leads to
them catching the wind easily when they
are slack, and can lead to tangles around
the rod rings. I find this happens most
often when you are changing lures. These
lines require careful spooling when loading
your reels. If wound on too lightly the
uppermost turns will dig in when you are
retrieving under pressure. This will cause
snatching on the next cast, and more than
likely a bird's nest. Hence the upsurge
in cross wind line lay systems on many of
the latest reels, both fixed-spool and multiplier.
With careful spooling they are quite manageable
on standard baitcasters. The trick is to
wind them on under tension, so tight that
the line feels solid on the reel. Either
get someone to hold the line spool under
so it revolves under pressure, or use one
of the loading devices that are available.
An alternative method is to load the line
under moderate tension then run it all off,
tying the line to something solid, and winding
it back under tension as you re-spool. I
find this latter method to be the best as
the cushioning effect of the rod keeps the
pressure even. It is when you get an over-run
that the biggest drawback of all braids
becomes obvious. They are an absolute nightmare
to untangle, the more so if spooled on loosely.
Hi-Tech
braids have a number of advantages over
Dacron. Notably fine diameter and abrasion
resistance. Dacron is much thicker than
mono of the same test, while HPPE braids
are considerably thinner. Dacron is highly
susceptible to fraying, while HPPE lines
are among the most abrasion resistant materials
available for making lines from. Neither
line is tolerant of inferior knots (those
which 'strangle' the line like blood knots),
so Palomars and doubled Uni knots are highly
recommended. In practice I have found that
because it is possible to use a HPPE line
of 50lb test, in place of a 25lb mono, a
standard Uni Knot is usually good enough.
We're back to choosing line by diameter
rather than stated breaking strain again
- let's face it, even if the knot halves
the breaking strain of the line it will
still be 25lb. Plenty strong enough for
most circumstances! Some people recommend
the use of Superglue on braid knots, but
with the two knots mentioned above I honestly
think that you will gain nothing by gluing
them. The glue is suggested to prevent the
knots slipping and pulling out, neither
of these knots is likely to do so because
their construction prevents this. The blood
knot, on the other hand, as well as 'strangling'
the line can pull free of itself.
Two
of the most interesting things about these
braids, or any ultra-low stretch line, are
that your rods feel different, and casting
seems much sharper. Both of these effects
are due to the fact that the line is not
soaking up the energy you are putting into
the tackle, therefore the rod will feel
crisper', the action coming close to that
of the bare blank being flexed. Playing
fish is also a new experience, every twist
and turn that the pike makes is transmitted
to your hand. To some degree, low stretch
lines increase casting distance. I remember
trying a Spectra braid as a shock leader,
a few years before the lines were on the
market, and being surprised that it increased
my casting distance by an appreciable amount.
When you think about it this is bound to
happen. Because the line hardly stretches
at all more of the energy you put into the
cast will be transmitted to the lure, less
being absorbed by stretching the line.
Palomar
and Uni/Grinner knots. For extra strength
the Uni knot can be tied in a doubled
length of line.
It has to be said that HPPE lines are initially
very expensive to purchase. Currently between
œ10 and œ20 for one hundred yards.
This is offset by the fact that such strong
lines can be used that you will be able
to recover most lures that snag up - and
often the snag too! It has been said that
these lines will last longer than mono without
deterioration, and while this might indeed
be the case they are subject to wear. After
some time casting heavy lures you might
notice the last foot or so above the trace
taking on a furry appearance. The braid
is fraying slightly, and while only a few
filaments are affected and its strength
will not have been reduced all that much,
it is better to be safe than sorry and cut
back the line and retie the trace. In time
you will lose an appreciable length of line
and it will need to be respooled with added
backing, or replaced altogether. However,
as with all technical innovations the launch
price of these braids is high, but I expect
them to drop in relative price over the
next few years. Certainly if they prove
to be very popular.
Given
a choice between Dacron and HPPE lines I
would opt for the latter, its fine diameter
and high abrasion resistance being preferable.
I can certainly see me using it regularly
for trolling where the problems created
by repeated casting will not arise. The
increased ability to pop lures free of weed
is a big time saver when trolling. I was
afloat with a mate of mine one day, I was
using braid while Martin was using mono.
Every time we went through a weedbed I was
able to clear my lure and get it running
properly again with one snap of the wrist.
Poor old Martin had to wind his bait in
every time and pick the weed off by hand.
Fishing topwaters over thick weed is another
situation where gel spun braids have a big
advantage over monos. Not only do they tend
to ride on the water, which helps lure action
and control, and keeps them out of the weed,
but their improved abrasion resistance is
a life-saver when a fish is hooked. Being
fine and tough they cut through weed without
much trouble, staying in one piece as well.
Even the toughest mono won't stand up to
much of that treatment. The more I use these
new braids the more I get to like them,
but I still think mono will have a place
on some of my reels for some time to come.
One advantage that braids offer (if that's
what it is) that isn't often mentioned is
the fact that these new braids enable you
to use a smaller reel than you would have
to use with mono of a similar breaking strain.
If you find large reels uncomfortable to
use, then the new braids will allow you
to drop down a size while retaining the
line strength you need. Even so, I prefer
to replace mono of a certain diameter with
a braid of roughly equivalent thickness.
I say roughly equivalent because most braids
are not circular in cross-section, many
being flat or almost square. Only Berkley's
Ultra Max with its solid central core is
close to round in cross-section. My reasoning
for maintaining line thickness is that casting
potential, and lure fishing depth and so
on, will remain more or less unaffected,
but I should be fishing with a much tougher
line - and certainly with a more sensitive
one.
The
very latest developments in line, which
I have only read about, involve Spectra
or Dyneema fibres formed into lines that
are not braided. Apparently the filaments
are fused together, giving a line that is
more like a mono, but with the strength
and low stretch of the current braids. Where
it will all end is anyone's guess!
I
hope I have put the pros and cons of braided
lines in a fair manner. With something so
new as HPPE braid I will not stick my neck
out one way or the other at the present.
I know a number of anglers who swear by
them already, and one or two who have abandoned
them after initially hailing them as the
best line ever. I fully expect that braids
will find their niche in time, being singled
out for use in some situations or with particular
techniques, and left alone for others. I
even have a feeling that certain brands
will be singled out for specific purposes.
Mason Tiger Braid, for example, has black
polyester braided in with the Spectra fibres.
This gives a touch of colour to the line.
It also seems to take on water and cause
the line to sink. Berkeley's Gorilla Braid,
the green at least, has a coating that I
think helps keep the line afloat. I have
definitely found Tiger Braid more difficult
to fish surface stickbaits with due to its
sinking tendency. Nonetheless, Tiger Braid
is the best of the Spectra braids that I
have used so far. Despite the advantages
of these new braids I feel sure that there
is a lot of life left in nylon monos yet.
One
aspect of line choice that has not really
been looked into much in the past is that
of colour. These days both braids and monos
are available in a range of colours. Be
warned, though, that Spectra fibres do not
take dyes well, and all clours will quickly
wash out of these lines (hence Tiger Braid's
polyester threads). So you might just as
well buy the (usually cheaper) white versions
in the first place. Interestingly, clear
(or white as they appear to be on the spool)
nylons are inherently the most abrasion
resistant. I think it is something to do
with the dyes added to coloured monos that
reduces their abrasion resistance. On a
similar tack, fluorescent monos seem to
me to be more supple than standard versions
of the same line. Why this is I don't know,
but I have been told that fluo monofilament
is also less tough than standard nylon.
These properties aside, why should you choose
one colour over another? It has to be said
that a high visibility line helps you guide
your lure around features, and gauge precisely
where your lure is at all times. Fluorescent
lines are especially useful in low light.
In some light conditions a very dark line
can be even more obvious than a light coloured
one. What you have to decide is if being
able to see your line clearly will improve
your fishing. What the use of a fluorescent,
or otherwise highly visible, line will not
do is put the pike off. I have proved this
to myself time after time, and with artificial
and natural baits. Even with static deadbaits,
which the pike have plenty of time to inspect
things, I have no proof that they are put
off in any way. When trolling with multiple
rods hi-vis lines can be a help when executing
tight turns to show if there is a risk of
tangles, and to make it clear how far behind
the boat the lures are working. For other
techniques I find little to choose between
high or low visibility line. Overall I suppose
I prefer a neutrally toned line as I feel
that this is least likely to scare the pike.
Even though I know that when a fish is sufficiently
focused on a lure it is oblivious to the
line.
A
second property of lines that is often overlooked
is whether they float or sink. This might
not matter too much for most lure fishing
but with surface baits it can be important.
A floating, or slow sinking, line is a help
when trying to work smaller surface plugs,
or even buzzbaits, when any extra weight
will make the task of keeping them on the
top much harder. The reverse is also true,
but to a lesser extent, in that a floating
line will keep diving baits a little higher
in the water. Sinking lines can be used
with stickbaits to work them just below
the surface, provided you allow sufficient
time for the bulk of the line to sink. As
tough monos are dense and gel spun braids
far less so you have two options open to
you in this department. Another instance
where the new braids have a specific benefit.
Having
mentioned the Palomar and Uni knots for
use with braided line, I can also recommend
them for monos. When it comes to knots it
is worth lubricating them before snugging
them down, and a purpose made lubricant
is a far better than saliva. I have used
the Kevin Nash stuff and found it to be
excellent. I have also put a drop of line-lube
on a nasty tangle when casting with braid
and found that this made it easier to un-pick.
If a knot looks suspect when first tied,
retie it. The extra time spent might prevent
a lost fish. As a session goes on I retie
my traces at frequent intervals when using
mono (so far, Spectra braids appear to need
retying far less frequently), at least after
every fish and once an hour if sport is
slow. It is worth checking the trace for
signs of wear at this point, and replacing
it if in any doubt at all. Kinks, split
strands in the wire and deformed snap links
all result in a fresh trace being tied on.
Better safe than sorry.
I
always use a reliable multistrand wire for
my traces, usually Berkley Steelstrand,
and top quality swivels and snaps. Again
Berkley swivels and either Duolock or Berkley
Cross-Lok. Duolock snaps are available in
the U.K. under the Lindy and Cordell labels.
There is no point cutting corners where
a pike's well being is at stake. I had complete
confidence in the Duolock design until I
had one open out on me while playing a fish
that looked to be in the 6-8lb class. The
snap was one of the black coated type which
I had not used much before this incident,
previously trusting the stainless steel
ones - even in very small sizes. I am sure
there is a lesson there, and shall be sticking
with stainless Duolocks from now on. Since
reverting to the stainless variety I have
had no trouble with Duolocks.
My
traces are between twelve and eighteen inches
long, constructed from wire between 30 and
100lb test (depending on the method in use)
with snaps and swivels of a matching strength
twisted - not crimped - to them. A swivel
at one end, and a snap at the other is all
that is needed. For the most part I carry
just two trace designs: 100lb wire with
150lb Cross-Lok and swivel; and 60lb wire,
65lb swivel and large or medium sized stainless
Duolock. These two styles cover me for 90%
of my needs, all but the lightest of lures,
or unless spinners or bucktails are being
used when I might feel the need to use ball
bearing swivels. With these lures, and some
spoons, ball bearing swivels are essential
to reduce line twist.
Black Berkley Cross-Lok and stainless Duolock
snap links, shown both open and closed.
Something I have recently started doing
to my traces is sleeving the twists of wire
at the snap end of the trace, and part of
the snap itself, with shrink tube. This
makes the snap almost an extension of the
wire and prevents the annoying habit that
snaps have of slipping out of line. This
alters the angle of pull on your lures and
can result in them tracking out of true.
The shrink tube stops that happening. Clear
shrink makes for a very tidy looking trace,
but the black stuff works just as well in
practice. Another case of the pike not caring
one way or the other!
All wire and most fittings are dull in colour,
causing little flash under the water. The
exception being the stainless Duolocks.
Dull components have the benefit in that
their black finish gradually wears off through
use. When the bare metal is showing through,
it is replacement time for that particular
trace.
Duolock snap sleeved with black shrink
tubing to reduce the incidence of tangles
and kinking.
To some of you the traces that I use might
seem on the heavy side. For many years I
have been reading articles and books that
tell you to keep traces as light as possible
so the action of your lures is not adversely
muted. There is something in this, but only
with very small lures. For my run-of-the-mill
pike lures heavy traces have no adverse
effect. Heavier wire is inherently stiffer,
and therefore less prone to kinking when
a lure fouls the trace on the cast. I find
that I also get through far fewer traces
in a session than when I used lighter wires.
Individual traces are stored and carried
in small grip-seal bags to protect them
from damp.
Next
: 4 - Hooks
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